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John Horrocks' Diary
"The expedition under the command of Mr Horrocks, the object of which is to explore the hitherto unknown country north-west of the ranges of Mount Arden, started from Adelaide on Saturday morning last.
The public has evinced a proper appreciation of the objects by subscribing towards the outfit a sum rather above £140 within the short period of ten days.
Mr Horrocks has taken with him rations for five months, and is accompanied by
1 Mr Theakstone the friend and fellow-traveller of the late Mr Darke;
2 Mr Gill the Artist;
3 Martin Mann, a veteran soldier, late of the 96th;
4 an aboriginal native, Jimmy Moorhouse, who has been sometime in Mr Horrock's service;
5 a man, named Bernard Koling;
and last, not least,
6 the camel (not par excellence, being the only one in the colony), but the one of which Mr Horrocks is esteemed the distinguished possessor by the wondering natives, and which will doubtless prove a valuable appendage (!)"
"The departees went as far as Horrocks' property, Penwortham, where they prepared for the expedition proper, eventually leaving there on 29 July."
INTRODUCTION:
Expedition members left Adelaide on Saturday 11 July.
JOHN AINSWORTH HORROCKS, EXPLORER.
The Public Library Board, at its meeting on Friday, received from Mr. Charles Horrocks, nephew of John Ainsworth Horrocks, the explorer, a diary, compiled by the explorer's late sister, Celia Temple, from his letters to her.
The volume, which is in manuscript, contains a biographical sketch of J. A. Horrocks by his sister, and a map showing the route taken by him on the journey on which he was accidentally shot.
John Ainsworth Horrocks' interest in the S.A. unknown country, however, caused him to make excursions, and later to organize an expedition, which was the first to include a camel among its equipment. Horrocks's Pass was named after him.
Register (Adelaide, SA), Saturday 17 May 1919, page 6
In his "History of Discovery and Exploration of Australia," J. E. Tenison Woods refers to Horrocks work in opening up that country north of Adelaide, afterwards settled upon by Messrs. J. B. Hughes, G. C. Hawker, E. B. Gleeson, and others well known in South Australia.
He adds— "Amid the brilliant exploits of other explorers, the efforts of this brave young man have been quite forgotten. I am glad to be the first to rescue them in some degree from oblivion. . . ."
In 1846, when only 28 years of age, Horrocks died from the effects of the wounds received through a gun accident while exploring the country north of Spencers Gulf.
Pictured above is Mr Gill, the artist (R), who accompanied (tall) Mr Horrocks (L) on his ill-fated expedition beyond the northern confines of settled location in this province, with a view to find more country adapted for the depasturing of sheep, &c., in a north-west direction.
View from the top of Point Encounter (Uro Bluff) with (left to right) Horrocks (with gun) and Gill. They appear to be examining Gill's large format sketch book and Gill's portfolio is at his feet.
Their two horses are at the base of the hill (centre-left).
"Horrocks, who was the same age as Gill, had arrived in South Australia in the same year, 1839, and had become a close friend." So acclaimed artist S.T. Gill accompanied John Ainsworth Horrocks' small expedition from July to September 1846.
The evening before departing, Gill gave a supper for friends. The occasion was reported at some length in John Stephens' newspapers – in Wednesday's Register17 and again in Saturday's Observer18:
"On the evening previous to the starting of the expedition our much respected and talented fellow-colonist, Mr Gill, gave a parting supper to a few of his friends..."
JOHN AINSWORTH HORROCKS’ JOURNAL - 1846
July 29 Monday - Left Penwortham Village at 12 noon and arrived one mile north of the stockyard on the North River at 6 o’clock – 12 miles north. The horses were very awkward at starting, not having previously been in harness together. Afterwards they travelled well, and promised to be a very good team.
The axletree broke, but fortunately we were not far from Mr. Gleeson’s village blacksmith who made a capital job of it.
July 30 – 11am North – We got 13 goats from Mr. Robinson’s station on the Hutt River.
A milch goat, a present from Mrs. Robinson was obliged to be left, as they were not able to separate it from the flock.
We started at 10.45am, camped at 2.15pm passed Mr. Hawker’s head station and camped about seven miles from the Broughton. The roads and places very heavy and boggy.
Killed a goat – a very poor one.
Hughes Station
July 31 – In the middle watch last night the goats rushed by the man on watch, probably having scented a wild dog. They were fortunately all found this morning about a mile from the camp.
Started at 11.am; camped on the second crossing of the Broughton at 5pm.
It rained hard through the day. Twice we got deeply bogged, and were obliged to unload each time and carry the things across. The last time we had to pass through about 15 yards of water 2ft deep. Very little wood for the fire; we burnt grass tree, which emits a strong aromatic smell.
Having fastened the leading goat by a tether, the others stopped quietly with him.
The scene above shows the expedition camp in a creek bed with Gill and five other men, Harry the camel, Horrocks' dog, about four horses and two drays. Gill has just returned from sketching.
If the 1847 exhibition was in good sequence, then this camp is on the night of 18 August (morning of 19 August) immediately after the range crossing.
Last night the wind and rain were very heavy, capsizing the men’s tent and tearing mine nearly all round the bottom.
We started at 11 with half a load to cross the third place of the Broughton and unloaded about 2 miles on the north side, when the cart returned for the remainder of the load, which was quite enough for the horses to bring, considering the boggy state of the ground and hilly country.
We reached Mr. Hughes’ station about 10 o’clock, when I decided on sending back Mr. Theakstone to procure another cart and horse.
Stopped at Mr. Hughes head station to rest the horses and men.
It rained hard during the day. Left biscuits, sago, rice and barrels for Mr. Theakstone to bring on when he returns from Penwortham village.
Pastoralist John Bristow Hughes
by Chuck, Thomas Foster, c. 1870
The Broughton River at Merriton in 1896, not a long way from Mr Hughes' station at Koolunga
Food hunting
August 1 – 12am NNW – After travelling three miles through gentle rising ground, we came to Gulnare Plains, so called by me five years previously after a favourite dog of mine, which provided myself and three others with emus, our only food, having killed seven within four days, and the last
two of the number he killed within ten minutes.
About ten miles from where we camped, the ground was very soft and sticky and gave the horses hard work to drag the cart after them.
Lately there have been wells sunk on the rising ground to the westward of the plains which has enabled Mr. Hughes to occupy a large tract of country and make capital sheep runs.
About 5 minutes previous to camping, the camel bit Garlick severely on the head – two wounds of great length above his temples and another severe gash on his cheek.
I dressed them instantly and applied sticking plaster.
He (the camel) had in the morning taken one of the goats in his mouth across the loins and would have broken his back if Jimmy had not speedily run to its rescue.
Rain & Cold
Sunday August 2 – 13M, NNW – Last night it rained hard and was very cold. We started at 10.30 and camped on Rocky River at 2.45.
We first came to the river 5 miles from the last night’s camp, the ground to it undulating and gravelled in places.
Sent Mr. Gill to the Messrs. Hughes for a little mutton, who were kind enough to send in a leg; the last sheep station we shall pass.
Their new station is lately formed and is situated on the west of the river in a fine grassy, hilly country, well timbered, but very indifferently watered in the summer season. In the bed of the river are gum trees, but rather stunted.
Good Country
Monday August 3 – 11M NNW – We started at 10, reached Mr. White’s station at 3 pm. The country improved every mile. The hills on the west of the river well timbered, and those on the east open and well grassed. In about 9 miles we left Rocky River and continued on White’s Creek.
The water in the channels was running rapidly. This part of the country is beautifully adapted for a cattle station, and its present occupier has about 11,000 head running on it. The ranges are rich in
minerals. A splendid survey of 20,000 acres has lately been mapped out by the sapper and miner.
Mr. Gill has taken several beautiful sketches in the vicinity.
Above: The scene shows the expedition camp on a plain with Mount Brown and Flinders Range in the background.
There appear to be six men in camp: two at a tent (back left) and four near the camp fire. At the fire (left to right) are likely: Horrocks, Theakston sitting on a box, Gill on ground sketching and Kilroy standing. The two other men (at the tent, left) are likely Garlick (cook and tent-keeper) and Moorhouse.
There are two drays and three horses. The camel is not seen.
Dated 20 August on the reverse, this seems to be the morning of that day. "We camped in a patch of wild oats three miles from the creek." (Horrocks, 19 August)
Party complete
Tuesday August 4 – Stopped at Mr. White’s to recruit the horses and waiting for Mr. Theakstone’s arrival with another cart; the load too heavy for the present state of the ground.
Jimmy Moorhouse wounded a black swan. Mr. White rode to a gum tree in Flinders Ranges with Mr. Gill to take a sketch of the north of the gulf and the hills on the opposite road.
Wednesday August 5 – I remained at Mr. White’s; a black named Kelly has promised to show us a pass through ranges by Mount Brown – (Horrocks Pass).
Theakstone arrived with a cart and horse, making my party and outfit consisting of myself, Theakstone – second in command, Mr. Gill
landscape painter, Kilroy – driver to one-horse team, Garlick – tent-keeper, and Jimmy Moorehouse – a native goatherd, two carts, six horses, one camel and twelve goats.
John White, pastoralist and pioneer, later of Fulham Farm, Reed Beds, South Australia. He was 'killed by horses', aged 73.
![Spencer's Gulf from Camp ... S of Mt. B[rown].jpg](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/117a93_a7df06baf61240a2ae513e6c8cfa14de~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_800,h_476,al_c,q_85,enc_avif,quality_auto/117a93_a7df06baf61240a2ae513e6c8cfa14de~mv2.jpg)
Mt Remarkable
Thursday August 6 – Preparing to start tomorrow. Mending harness, cobbles and camel’s saddle, put all the provisions in one cart, and tent, bedding etc. in the light cart. Killed a calf; a present from Mr. White.
Friday August 7 – 15M NNW – Started at a 10.45, camped at 4.15. After 5 miles over grassy, undulating hills, reached Wild Dog Creek, which we followed down for 7 miles. We then turned to the north-west, and in 3 miles, over very boggy, barren and strong ground reached Malcolm &
Campbell’s cattle station, about 1 ½ miles from foot of Mt. Remarkable.
The country for the last 8 miles covered with gums and box trees and the hills partially with scrub. The station is well situated in a large grassy plain, and is at present occupied by 500 head of cattle.
Before starting this morning a shepherd of Mr. Robinson’s, distant from Mr. White’s about 2 miles, reported to the police at Mr. White’s station the robbery of 22 sheep during the previous night.
Third Creek
Saturday August 8 – Sent Kelly (a black) back again to Mr. White’s for a bag containing the men’s clothing which was forgotten to be put on the dray yesterday. 8M WNW Started at 11.
Camped on the Third Creek from last nights station. Passed over a well-grassed country partially covered over with stones, and the ground in places very boggy.
Sunday 9August – 3M NNW – The ground being very heavy we put extra horses on each dray. Camped on the edge of the scrub by Stony Point. Capital feed and rain and water.
Campbell accompanied us to show a pass through the ranges – (Horrocks Pass). On leaving his station he gave us butter and part of a calf. Their hospitality was unbounded.
Horrocks' Pass
Monday August 10 – Accompanied by Campbell, I went in search of a pass through the ranges.
We found a tolerable place, but shall be obliged to carry the load on horse and camel back part of the way. Had all our linen washed and harness put in order.
Tuesday August 11 – Campbell returned to his station. We started at 11, but had not proceeded more than 1 ½ W when an axletree broke asunder. Sent back Kilroy to Mr. White’s to endeavour to procure another.
First campsite Nth
February 1847 exhibition no. 97 "Camp on Creek N. of Mt. Remarkable".
The view is across a creek to five expeditioners, tents, camel, horse and cart. At left are the expedition goats and in the distance the Flinders Range.
On 7 August, Horrocks wrote "reached Malcolm and Campbell's cattle station, about one and a half miles from the foot of Mount Remarkable" and on 8 August: "Camped on the Third Creek from last night's station." Gill wrote they moved on at about 10 the following morning (9 August).
Malcolm Gillies. Sheep farmer, pastoralist, Willochra Creek station, Mt Remarkable
Flinders Views
February 1847 exhibition no. 98.
"Sketch from Stony Point, looking E.S.E."
On 10 August 1846 Gill noted in his diary: "I took two sketches from Stoney Point behind the camp." Gill reclines (centre foreground).
Grandison locates this view at Mount Maria, near Wilmington, looking N.E. to Mookra Tower (Stokes Hill), noting this would make the previous 1956 title "Distant View of Mt Arden" incorrect. Grandison's location is consistent with the scene and reverse inscription.
At left before the distant range appears to be a body of water. There is no permanent water body in this geography, but there may have been surface water at the time or Gill was picturing distant vegetation.
Flinders View SW
February 1847 exhibition no. 99 "Spencer's Gulf, from Flinder's [sic] Range".
A southwest view to Spencers Gulf and beyond. Foreground from left to right: Jimmy Moorhouse and Gill as the artist at work. Inscribed on reverse (likely by Gill): "Spencers Gulf from F. Range / August 10th".
"Thursday, 13th [August]. – I took native Jimmy [Moorhouse] and went out on the hills sketching; found the country exceedingly rough and stoney, as well as steep and difficult to travel over; returned to the camp about 4 o'clock, very tired and foot-sore." (Gill's diary).
There is a readily accessible vantage position with a southwest view that corresponds with this scene apparently looking over Mount Granger on the near shore, across to the far shore with the three hummocks and a tableland at right. Grandison locates the vantage point as Hancocks Lookout.
Flinders Range
Wednesday and Thursday 12 & 13 August – Made an excursion to the top of Flinders Range. The top very rocky; composed of a red and grey stone, and very hard.
The sides, near the bottom, red slate in strata of from 1/8 to ½ inch in thickness. The night very frosty.
The horses slept uncommonly well about the camp, and are looking in good condition for their route across the plain.
After leaving this range the view to the NW is very cheerless. One hill is distant about 100 miles in that course. Fires seen about 30 miles off.
Same route a prospect of their being better.
Frost & Meat
Friday August 14 – Last night bitterly cold from a very hard frost. The goats, with the exception of one, are very lame. They amused themselves last night by leaping on our tent and tearing it in several places.
They are decidedly preferable to sheep in an excursion as they give tongue immediately they are caught, so that the natives could not take any without being heard.
Theakstone and Jimmy went out kangaroo hunting and brought back a doe, which Jimmy declined to feast upon, as the young blackfellows are told by the old men some calamity is sure to happen to them if they touch one, thereby securing to themselves a larger amount of meat in their hunting excursions.
When I told Jimmy how ridiculous it was for him to suffer hunger when he saw it did not injure us, he said we, being whites, it was harmless, and mentioned a black of a tribe having been lame in his foot, also another boy having been smashed by a star, the consequences of eating a female kangaroo.
Newer Axles
Saturday August 15 – Kilroy returned from White’s bringing two half-axles and boxes.
Mr. White behaved in the kindest way possible having told Kilroy to select from three drays any axletree he might think suitable, and eventually they were obliged to break in pieces two old wheels to get out the boxes.
Immediately on his return we set to work, and managed, by good fortune, to get out the box from the wheel without damage.
Sunday August 16 – Completed repairs to the damage done to the provision dray, and got ready for a start in the morning.
Kelly (a black) promised to accompany us to the head of the gulf with his lubra (wife), who is a native of that county.
In the night he decamped, taking her with him, having told one of the men he was afraid he should lose his lubra if she went back to her friends.
He had only stolen her from a native policeman a few days previous.
Troubles
Monday 17 August – Started very early with one dray with four horses. They reached the top of the hill in safety, and then returned for the other dray.
In the meantime, I took the camel and the provisions down the range through a nasty narrow valley on him (Horrocks Pass?)
He answered very well, considering he had never carried a load above two hundred yards.
He got enraged one time and bit two bags of flour, making in each a large hole. At another time he felt his load (350lb) getting a little hard, when he decamped, and left the load scattered all down the pass.
The two drays were got safely to the bottom of the first steep hill; when, in going along a sideling, with two men holding on, they each got a capsize without doing too much injury.
The quicksilver bottle was broken and tumbled to the ground.
With a great deal of trouble most of it was picked up again. The
two drays remained for the night where they had capsized.
To Depot Camp
Tuesday 18 August – 1 ½ M NW returned for the drays about 1½ mile up the valley, where we camped and got one of them safely down.
By the evening we dug a road over all the places where the creek crossed, and collected all the items scattered on the road.
Wednesday August 19 – 4 ½ M NNE – Mr. Theakstone and Jimmy Moorhouse cut away several crossings in the creek towards the plain, which made the road outwards good.
In the meantime Kilroy, Mr. Gill and myself went up the creek for the provision dray, which we at last got to the camp.
It required all our utmost strength to keep from capsizing by holding on the upper side with ropes.
When we reached the bottom of the creek with our loads, we took the horses up the gully, N to water about 1 ½ miles .We camped in a path of wild oats 3 miles from the creek and 4 ½ from the camp.
Natives
August 20 – 22 M NNW – Started at 8.45. Camped on creek 3 miles from Depot Creek at 6pm over a most desolate plain filled with watercourses, and very stony, covered with salsolaceous plants.
Killed 3 kangaroos. The dogs not showing, we only got one.
Saw in the creek a most gigantic geranium, a beautiful light bluish-purple.
In the creek we camped, Mr. Gill saw 5 natives. He was then in search of water, and endeavoured to make them understand it, but to no purpose. They appeared dreadfully alarmed, and he returned to acquaint me when they decamped.
They have been much disturbed by the police whilst they have been hunting for the murderers of two shepherds of Mr. Tennant’s and taking from him 900 sheep.
"Mr H. and I climbed the hill, which was excessively stoney and steep, taking with us the spy-glass to look over the north-west country, which presented a most desolate aspect – one immense space of dry sandy country, covered with a low, dry, crisp scrub, without the slightest vestige of grass or probability of water. I took a sketch of this un-cheering scene, which shows the distant bit of elevated land." (Gill, 22 August 1846)
Attacked !
Attack of Natives, sunset (Fight with the Blacks)
Horrocks and Gill clashed with Aboriginal people shortly after turning from Point Encounter (Uro Bluff).
"On observing them running down towards us with their spears, we halted and fired three balls, which struck the ground very near them, in each case rising the dust in a cloud; this brought them to a stand for a little, but they did not appear to know the use of the arms, as they looked on the ground and moved but little aside.
We reloaded and advanced towards them, when they took up their position on the top of the hill, shouting and laughing defiance. We stopped at eighty yards, and gave them three barrels more, when we saw no more of them..." (Gill, 22 August)
Water
Friday August 21 – 4 M NNE – Reached Depot Creek at 11, the horses very much fatigued, not having had any water for 2 nights, and yesterday and today very warm.
We found the spring about one mile up the creek and got good water by digging on the gravel. The horses drank each on an
average 45 quarts of water.
Good oaten grass about Eyre’s old camp. The traces still visible in
places, though above 6 years old. We did our might to perpetuate his memory in this country by taking our drays on his tracks and mark the route to water for future Bushmen.
Killed a goat – the one that has give us so much trouble, and which Jimmy was delighted to see slaughtered, having in his hatred to the animal promised Garlick, the tent-keeper, a pint of ale if he would kill it next.
Meeting Natives
Saturday August 22 – Mr. Gill accompanied me over table-topped hills bearing 16 degrees north of west. We crossed the first creek from Lake Torrens about 9 miles and the second creek 10 miles from the camp; the ground in both places was tolerably firm.
The land on both shores and the island in the centre sandy, and producing a little grass. 8 miles further in the tableland very stony
and desolate. The country round about covered with stunted and salsolaceous tress and shrubs.
In passing between the undulating land we saw 2 natives – a woman and child. We rode up to her. She was dreadfully frightened at first. By degrees I persuaded her to go with us to water. On the way we saw 5 more natives; none of them would approach us – all children.
After passing over very stony ground she brought us to a gully running south where we saw several more natives.
These she beckoned to run away.
Mr. Gill leading my horse, I advanced and made signs of peace, when two men and a young boy armed with several jagged spears came to meet me. They sent away the women and children, and were very sulky.
For a long time they would not show us water, which eventually was within 50 yards the remains of rain. They appeared alarmed at the horses.
After we had all drank they departed, the old man gesticulating and threatening us. I fired off a gun to see if it would intimidate them, but to no purpose, the old man appearing to wish the other two to attack us. He stopped until we went round the side of the hill, when I left Mr. Gill and ascended to the top.
Threatened
About 60 miles or seventy miles north-west were two rises; a table and the other small round hill about 2 miles in length. All the space between and on both sides for many miles a large plain covered with stunted trees and scrub, with innumerable sand rises.
The view I had convinced me that it was impossible to expect to find any country in that direction and, moreover, too late in
the season to traverse it. I descended the hill which is very steep and rocky and made up my mind to return to the camp and follow up the tableland hills with the camel.
We returned to the water in search of a quart pot and compass Mr. Gill had dropped, when we saw the natives had made three camps in different directions, evidently watching us. We passed on, not finding the articles, and saw about ½ mile further on an old native.
We passed him at about 200 yards when he was very ferocious and threatening. We had not proceeded more than 100 yards further on when we heard a shout on a hill behind us and on looking back saw 6 natives after us with their spears.
We halted and let them come within 200 yards when we fired three shots. This stopped their progress, but not their rage. They did not seem to know what danger there was in a gun.
They retreated about 50 yards and then set a scrub on fire. We reloaded after some trouble as the cartridges were all undone and the carbine I had was rather too small in the bore for the balls, which obliged me to pick up a stone and hammer it down.
We then advanced about 80 yards when Mr. Gill fired one shot. They
laughed at us as they thought by getting behind a small scrub the balls would not harm them.
A young man had on his head a part of a red worsted cap, and knew my knife by name, evidently having seen Europeans. It strikes me I saw this part of the cap in the possession of a man named
Southey, lately murdered by natives, and one of his spears had the marks of blood about 6 inches along the point.
The 2 murdered men had guns, but neither of them would go off, which inclines me to think these natives had a share in the murder and the robbery of 900 sheep, and that they thought our guns were useless.
We then continued our journey to the island between the creeks, where we slept, and had a little grass for the horses. It was the only grass we had seen all day.
Torrens Lake
Sunday 23 August – Returned to the camp about 9 miles. Saw on the salt creek several tracks of two-toed emus, very large.
The drainage from the hills is into lakes, which dry up into very hard
crust, the horses scarcely making any impression. On the bank of one I found a quantity of talc.
Monday 24 August – Removed our camp nearer the water, and found some tobacco plants in the creek.
Tuesday & Wednesday 25 & 26 August – Mr. Gill not having completed his sketches hindered us from leaving the camp as he is to accompany me to the north-west.
Thursday 27 August – Ascended the mount too late to take my bearings. Before starting I saw four hills bearing 32 to 35 degrees north of east distant about 60 miles, which I immediately determined to explore previous to going on to the west coast of the lake.
End of Horrocks journal in his own handwriting
